Nigella is corseted, plucked and preened to oblivion. Jamie is artfully ruffled. Heck, even Gordon’s had Botox. Most food television is completely reliant on aspiration and impossible perfection – a lifestyle wank, if you will. This is all well and good but with it comes the risk of self-loathing when the peak of your culinary week is scrambled eggs and toast in coffee-stained pyjamas. Thank goodness, then, for the Hairy Bikers and their willingness to strip down to their stripy pants.